Chris Smith a.k.a. CLS on things you need to know before buying a suit

In addition to looking more attractive and stylish both socially and officially, a suit will have people taking you more seriously. This will go a far way in developing your personal brand, which is valuable in itself. Furthermore, if you look good, you feel good! So let’s discuss the things you need to know before buying a suit.

Now let’s start off by getting something straight. A suit is a jacket and trousers made from the same fabric (not just similar or matching) and intended to be worn together. So wearing pants that match the color of your jacket does not make the pairing a suit. First thing to know when buying a suit is to try looking for fabric that’s 100% wool. Look for the Super S Number rating, which is a number indicating the thickness of the wool fibre. In general a higher number means a tighter yarn, and the more luxurious the material and softer the feel.

Getting Your First Suit

Another key thing to know when buying your first suit, is to go for colors like navy, charcoal and grey. These will be the most essential for your first suit purchase. Light blue or true blue are rather casual, while black should be reserved for black tie events. I recommend that you avoid suits with noticeable patterns. As it relates to the style of the jacket, you will find jackets that have three (3) buttons, which are a little more formal than those with two (2) or a single button. You will also have an option in lapels. There are notch lapels, peak lapels, and shawl lapels. You are pretty much free to experiment here according to your taste.

Also you have three options of vents in the back, double, single, and finally no vents which I recommend only if you’re not in the habit of putting your hands in your pocket, which tends to throw off the flow of jackets without vents. Speaking of pockets, I stick with the classic flap (sewn in) jacket pockets which for me are more classic than patch (cast) pockets.

Fit Is Everything When Buying A Suit
A suit that fits you well will have you walking with a whole lot of added confidence.

Now I can’t stress this enough, fit is KING! Guys that are shorter or stout may want to opt for a custom fit suit. Importantly, the jacket should fit you in the shoulders. The point of the jacket should be at the shoulder point and shouldn’t go beyond an inch or come in more than inch. If the torso is too tight you’re going to have an unsightly ‘X’ form in the front of the jacket. If it’s too loose, you’ll be able to fit a full fist or two in. A great tailor will be able to adjust a suit maybe about plus or minus 1.5 to 2 inches. Beyond that, I recommend sizing up or down, as large adjustments will start to throw off proportions and placement of pockets and other details.

When it comes to length, the back of the jacket should cover your buttocks. Feel free to have it a little shorter if you are of shorter stature, and slightly longer if you’re on the taller side. For the sleeves, as a general guide, when your arms are stretched down your sides, your knuckles should be the length of the jacket give or take an inch. Show a quarter to three quarters of an inch of your shirt cuff. Finally, ensure the jacket collar doesn’t sit too far off your neck.

Pants Are Equally Important

Let’s talk about the trousers, which is no less important. You don’t want to have trousers two inches too long, or an inch too short. You may opt for trousers with no break, a quarter break, half break, or full break. Shorter guys may go with no break. Taller guys try to go with a full break. Suit trousers typically can be taken in or let out about one and a half inch. Again, larger adjustments will end up throwing off proportions and pocket placement and distorting the trousers. When adjusting to get rid of the excess material around the buttocks area, ensure not to go too tight so natural movements become restricted and you end up ripping the trousers. Oh, and before I forget, flat front please no pleats.

Moving on to the question of where to buy your suit. Shopping online will give you the best selection and unbeatable convenience. Offline brick and mortar stores offer the speed to get your suit immediately. The customer service you get at a high-end men’s store is quite valuable. So the choice will come down to your needs and preference.


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